Dr. Park Ji Youn: It’s 2025 - It’s Time We Focus On Melasma Treatments That Work
If you do a quick Google search, you’ll quickly understand just how many services and products are offered today when it comes to melasma. Dig a little further online, and you’ll also realise that there is a severe lack of knowledge when it comes to treating different types of melasma on different skin tones. The biggest problem melasma patients face is not a lack of treatment options, but a huge shortage of guidance and knowledge.
This is why, even with a host of affordable options, melasma patients struggle to find treatment options that actually work long term, do not cause a rebound, and do not worsen the condition of their skin. And let’s not even get started about the fact that some professionals themselves are almost clueless about the true efficacies of the technology they are using on their clients.
Be careful about the types of melasma treatments you pick, as they could make your condition worse.
What Causes Melasma?
At its core, melasma is caused by melanocytes, the cells responsible for melanin production, going into overdrive. These pigment-producing cells become overstimulated and start releasing too much melanin into the skin. Several common triggers are known to set off this response:
- Sun or UV exposure: Even minimal sun exposure can aggravate melasma, making it darker and more persistent.
- Hormonal changes: This is especially common during pregnancy, when taking oral contraceptives, or due to hormonal imbalances.
- Other causes: Genetics, certain medications, heat, and even stress can play a role in melasma flare-ups.
Because these triggers are so common in our everyday lives and often beyond our control, melasma is notoriously difficult to treat and even harder to manage long-term.
How Does Ageing Contribute To Melasma?
As we age, our skin undergoes changes that can make melasma more stubborn and resistant to treatment. Thinning skin, accumulated sun damage, and slower cell turnover all contribute to how melasma presents in older individuals.
In ageing skin, the natural barrier becomes weaker and more prone to inflammation. Combined with a lifetime of sun exposure, this creates the perfect environment for melanocytes to react and produce uneven pigmentation.
Ageing also reduces collagen and elastin in the skin, which makes the appearance of pigmentation more pronounced. This is why treating melasma in older patients demands a thoughtful, layered approach that restores the skin’s structure while targeting the root cause.
Why Might The Current Melasma Treatment Not Work?
Here’s the uncomfortable truth: many conventional melasma treatments don’t work because they only focus on pigment removal. They do little to address the deeper underlying causes, such as inflammation, heat response, and overactive melanocytes.
Treatments like chemical peels, IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) therapy, and some types of lasers may offer short-term improvement, but the results are usually inconsistent, and the pigmentation often comes back.
In fact, some laser treatments can worsen melasma. The heat generated by these devices can stimulate the melanocytes even further, triggering the formation of more pigment weeks after treatment. This often leads to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) or, in some cases, hypopigmentation, which can be even more distressing than the original condition.
Melasma Treatment: A Multi-pronged Approach That Works
To truly manage melasma, treatment needs to go beyond just fading dark patches. It must address the deeper triggers like inflammation, vascular activity, and a weakened skin barrier.
Here’s how we approach melasma differently: with a multi-pronged strategy that not only clears pigment but also rebuilds your skin for long-term resilience.
Pigment removal and vascular control
The visible brown patches of melasma are only one part of the problem. What’s often overlooked is the role of vascular activity and inflammation beneath the skin, which silently fuels pigment production.
That’s why we don’t solely rely on aggressive, heat-based lasers. Instead, we use our proprietary Mulgwang Laser and Quinta Laser programmes, pigment treatments that:
- Break down melanin clusters safely and effectively, with a lower risk of rebound
- Regulate vascular activity, reducing the inflammatory triggers that stimulate melanin
- Stabilise the skin environment, so results last longer and flare-ups are less likely
This step helps reduce pigmentation gently, while minimising the risk of PIH.
Collagen-boosting skin rejuvenation
Melasma-prone skin tends to be fragile, inflamed, and hypersensitive. Treating the pigment alone without repairing the skin’s foundation often leads to short-lived results and frequent recurrences.
To reinforce the skin from within, we introduce collagen-stimulating treatments like Baby Collagen and PDLLA Skin Booster. These therapies:
- Rebuild collagen and elastin, improving the skin’s structure and resilience
- Strengthen the skin barrier, making it less prone to triggers like heat, sun, or irritation
- Improve overall texture and tone, giving the skin a healthier, more even appearance
- Prolong treatment results, reducing the chances of pigment returning
Hydration treatments to soothe and restore
Hydrating treatments restore balance and resilience. It is a critical yet often overlooked part of melasma management. Dry, dehydrated skin is more vulnerable to irritation and pigmentation triggers.
Our hydrating treatments, like Hyaluronic Acid (HA) + Glycerol and Zoey Skin, help to:
- Deeply hydrate and plump the skin, reducing dryness and dullness
- Smoothes skin texture, softening the look of pores and wrinkles
- Soothe inflammation, calming skin sensitivity that can worsen melasma
- Support the skin’s natural healing processes, enhancing overall skin health
- Boost the effectiveness of pigment and collagen treatments by creating an optimal skin environment
These layers of treatment make our melasma protocols effective and sustainable because when the skin is healthier, it’s better equipped to resist future pigment formation.
The importance of finding a melasma treatment approach that works
In many practices, quality pre-procedure discussions are not always available to clients, and this deeply saddens me. Factors such as ethnicity, skin tone, and more are all crucial components that your dermatologist must fully understand before recommending any form of treatment. After all, melasma treatments only work if your dermatologist truly understands your skin’s needs and the technology they are using.
That’s why at Ozhean Zoey, we take painstaking measures to ensure every laser program is tailored to each client’s specific condition, skin age, skin thickness, and more.
If you’re looking for an effective melasma treatment, don’t settle for quick fixes that only tackle part of the problem. Instead, choose treatments guided by experience and designed to treat melasma from all angles - because when your skin is healthier and more balanced, managing melasma becomes that much more achievable.
If you’re unsure where to start, our team of doctors are here to guide you. Book a consultation with us and let’s take the time to understand your skin so we can design a treatment plan that’s right for you.
About Dr. Park Ji-Youn
Dr. Park Ji-Youn is the founder and managing director of the Ozhean Group. As a board-certified dermatologist, she has published more than 30 scientific papers on dermatology and is the creator of Ozhean’s SKIN FIT program, which was conceived in 2015 and continues to successfully retain 80% of its original customers.